Protestors in St. Louis, 1920-30

These are photos of protests  in St. Louis for racial equality (1930) and voting rights for women (1920) from a spectacular exhibition of panoramas at the Missouri History Museum.

Incredibly, the roughly 5-by-30 foot photos are enlargments of the originals which are only about 8 by 50 inches and were also on display – yet they’re sharp enough that you can see individual hairs and the texture of the clothing fabrics. I believe they don’t make cameras any more that can obtain such high resolution except for the most sophisticated professional equipment used in science, the military or aerial photos on Google Maps.

Click on photos to enlarge

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Magdeburg – modern architectural masterpieces in the Kansas of Germany

The city of Magdeburg, deep in Germany’s equivalent of fly-over states in the U.S. is an odd mixture: a few showstopper architectural highlights of truly global signficance, a few pockets of liveliness, a great deal of ugliness, and next to no charm. Here I will show the bucket-list essentials that every architecture fan needs to know about, plus a few fascinating odds and ends

Magdeburg was 90% destroyed in World War II which of course means only 10% of the buildings are from before 1950 or so. Walking around you would hardly know Magdeburg is over 1,200 years old and was gloriously, opulently beautiful and prosperous before the war. The oldest documentation of the city is from 805 (805, not 1805) and a few decades later it was a center of power of the Holy Roman Empire. Today, the Neonazi party has 14% of the seats on the city council and 25% in the parliament of the state of which Magdeburg is the capital, Saxony-Anhalt.

Nowadays most of it looks like this…

Whereas it looked like this before the war…

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Jewish Cemetery Berlin Weissensee

This is the Weissensee Jewish Cemetery in Berlin, the second-largest in Europe with 115,000 graves on 100 acres. There aren’t any graves of people who are at all well-known in the U.S. but quite a few names are well-known in Germany such as founders of major department stores and publishing companies, writers, artists and musicians. It is still in use. Weissensee is the name of the neighborhood in Berlin and means White Lake. I uploaded a short video here.

“Unorthodox” miniseries, also, bad architecture

Some parts of the miniseries “Unorthodox” about the woman who escaped from a Hassidic sect in Brookyln were filmed a block away from me, namely, the apartment building where her fictional mother lives. Incidentally it was designed by a maddening architect – occasionally good, often aggressively lousy – named Hinrich Baller who was one of Berlin’s most popular from the 1980s to 2000s. He tried to bring some human-ness, life, and insipiration from nature to the unyielding, cold and ruthlessly functional watered-down Bauhaus that has steamrolled over Germany since 1950. Emphasis on tried.

Occasionally he hit the mark but very often got derailed into awkward geometric shapes forced into screeching juxtapositions, an obsession with unnecessarily sharp pointy angles verging on the pathological, zero sense of proportion and oh my goodness the railings. So. Many. Railings. Explosions of thin metal rods bent into ugly forms with lots of gaps and protrusions for entangling limbs, shoulder bags, and children’s heads.

Next to the apartment building is a school he designed which a Berlin newspaper called a “chronicle of scandals”: construction took eight years, leaving a trail of bankrupt companies and water leaks and a bill almost twice what was budgeted. However this is normal for Berlin so it wouldn’t be fair to blame him alone. But alll that was years before they had any idea a wing would have to be completely shut down and barricaded in 2017 after less than 20 years of use, due to deterioration, holes in the walkways big enough for a child to fall into, lack of fire exits, and still more leaks, forcing the students to eat lunch in their classrooms and the cancellation of German-language classes for immigrants. The school is in one of the city’s most desirable and prosperous neighborhoods, by the way, but still the area has so much violence the school has to have armed guards. So you can imagine what things are like in the city’s underserved communities.

Anyway… that all has nothing to do with the Unorthodox show. Here are photos showing the parts that were filmed just down the street from me. Click on the photos to enlarge. In each pair, the one on the left is a screenshot from the show and the one on the right is a photo I took myself. These are all scenes from when the woman goes to visit her mother.

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Paper cuts in the Netherlands

I just learned that the Netherlands has a long history of paper cuts, the artworks made by cuttiing a single sheet of paper. Hardly information about the Dutch tradition is available in English so I gathered together a few highlights. (Incidentally I also just found out there is a Jewish paper cut tradition going back 500 years. You may have seen Chinese paper cuts around; they’re much better known.) One Dutch paper cut artist I like a lot is Hil Bottema (1913-1968). Much of her work is printed matter based on paper cuts. I don’t know whether she did them originally as paper cuts or just drew them in that style.

My favorites are her New Year’s cards.. Click images to enlarge.

Postage stamps and pages from an informational booklet that accompanied them. The stamps are for Christmas and other holidays and have a surcharge that benefits children’s charities.

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New England, March 2020

We were in New Haven and rural New England just before Covid hit. Everything was gorgeous. The food was great and there was lots of agrodiversity and local produce and small producers even in the smallest towns, things that you essentially can’t get, by the way, here in Berlin where I live. Hard as it may be to believe, they somehow have only barely started getting the memo on eating local. The pictures may look a little gloomy because this was “mud season”, the time in March after the beautiful snow has melted and before spring has started. The trees are bare, mud is everywhere, and many sights, shops and restaurants are closed or have reduced hours. They even advise tourists to avoid March but we had a wonderful time.

Pictures of the excellent Yiddish Book Center in Amherst are here.

New Haven

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The Yiddish Book Center – Amherst, Massachusetts

This is the Yiddish Book Center which lies four hours north of New York City in Amherst, Massachusetts, adjacent to Hampshire College. It’s really great and you should visit. It’s an archives, museum, and cultural center housed in a gorgeous new building recalling a rural eastern European village. A big draw for me was Shtetl in the Sun: South Beach, Miami 1977-1980, an exhibition of photographs of Jewish retirees.

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Vienna – sights and places

Vienna is picture-postcard gorgeous. I still need to post my photos of pre-World War II storefronts that are still intact including their shop signs, which is one of the extraordinary things about the city. Even in Paris hardly of these have survived. Vienna even has some modern ones from the 1950s-60s , which are even rarer because they’ve never been considered historical or important. I did see lots of Klimt and Schiele  art in the museums but did not take pictures because those are easy to find on line.