Imagine Bauhaus meets Frank Lloyd Wright and Dr. Suess, but with Indonesian – The eccentric genius of the Amsterdam School, 1910-1930

Recently in Amsterdam I trekked out to a semi-remote nondescript residential quarter to visit the world’s first modernist apartment building, built in 1917, which is also one of the most important examples of a gloriously eccentric, little-known and absolutely unique style called the Amsterdam School. Lasting from the late-1910s up to World War II, it combined the austere, spartan functionalism of 1920’s modernisn with Art Deco’s geometric extravagance; Frank Lloyd Wright’s dramatic intersecting planes; and – curve ball! – traditional Indonesian styles; and – another curve ball! – a quirkiness that looks like  it could have come from Dr. Suess.

Click on images to enlarge and click again on the edges to jump to next or previous image.

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Jewish Cemetery Berlin Weissensee

This is the Weissensee Jewish Cemetery in Berlin, the second-largest in Europe with 115,000 graves on 100 acres. There aren’t any graves of people who are at all well-known in the U.S. but quite a few names are well-known in Germany such as founders of major department stores and publishing companies, writers, artists and musicians. It is still in use. Weissensee is the name of the neighborhood in Berlin and means White Lake. I uploaded a short video here.

“Unorthodox” miniseries, also, bad architecture

Some parts of the miniseries “Unorthodox” about the woman who escaped from a Hassidic sect in Brookyln were filmed a block away from me, namely, the apartment building where her fictional mother lives. Incidentally it was designed by a maddening architect – occasionally good, often aggressively lousy – named Hinrich Baller who was one of Berlin’s most popular from the 1980s to 2000s. He tried to bring some human-ness, life, and insipiration from nature to the unyielding, cold and ruthlessly functional watered-down Bauhaus that has steamrolled over Germany since 1950. Emphasis on tried.

Occasionally he hit the mark but very often got derailed into awkward geometric shapes forced into screeching juxtapositions, an obsession with unnecessarily sharp pointy angles verging on the pathological, zero sense of proportion and oh my goodness the railings. So. Many. Railings. Explosions of thin metal rods bent into ugly forms with lots of gaps and protrusions for entangling limbs, shoulder bags, and children’s heads.

Next to the apartment building is a school he designed which a Berlin newspaper called a “chronicle of scandals”: construction took eight years, leaving a trail of bankrupt companies and water leaks and a bill almost twice what was budgeted. However this is normal for Berlin so it wouldn’t be fair to blame him alone. But alll that was years before they had any idea a wing would have to be completely shut down and barricaded in 2017 after less than 20 years of use, due to deterioration, holes in the walkways big enough for a child to fall into, lack of fire exits, and still more leaks, forcing the students to eat lunch in their classrooms and the cancellation of German-language classes for immigrants. The school is in one of the city’s most desirable and prosperous neighborhoods, by the way, but still the area has so much violence the school has to have armed guards. So you can imagine what things are like in the city’s underserved communities.

Anyway… that all has nothing to do with the Unorthodox show. Here are photos showing the parts that were filmed just down the street from me. Click on the photos to enlarge. In each pair, the one on the left is a screenshot from the show and the one on the right is a photo I took myself. These are all scenes from when the woman goes to visit her mother.

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The Yiddish Book Center – Amherst, Massachusetts

This is the Yiddish Book Center which lies four hours north of New York City in Amherst, Massachusetts, adjacent to Hampshire College. It’s really great and you should visit. It’s an archives, museum, and cultural center housed in a gorgeous new building recalling a rural eastern European village. A big draw for me was Shtetl in the Sun: South Beach, Miami 1977-1980, an exhibition of photographs of Jewish retirees.

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